The triumphant return of Toronto’s tastiest ramen.
If you’ve been waiting eagerly for the return of Ryus Noodle Bar like I have, your wait is over! The restaurant, which is easily my favourite ramen joint in the city, has recently reopened across from Broadview subway station.
Ryus has always offered a variety of options for diverse diets. Now head chef Ryuichiro “Roy” Takahashi is taking his new location as inspiration to refocus the menu around chicken broth. While I sometimes find restaurants’ chicken-based offerings to be lighter than I would like, Ryus’ chicken broth has a deep umami flavour that can easily go toe to toe with the richest of pork broths.
When I visited the restaurant, Chef Roy prepared dishes that will feature on his new winter menu. The selection is themed around spicy bowls, offering customers a little extra warmth to get them through the coming Canadian winter.
Even if you’re not usually a fan of spice, I would still recommend the Taiwanese Ramen, a recipe made popular in the Japanese city of Nagoya. It has a light, sweet broth, with a spiciness that is more of a flavour hit than a tongue-singeing chili experience. I was amazed by how flavourful the ground chicken was in this dish, and I quickly understood why this bowl is a Ryus fan favourite.
Next up on the heat scale is a new dish on the winter menu: the Tantan Dip’n Noodle. Ryus’ thicker noodles are dressed lightly with house-made chili oil and served separately with delicate white fungus, bamboo shoots, ground chicken and a soft-boiled egg. It is then a build-your-own ramen experience as you dip the noodles in broth that starts with Roy’s original recipe tantan miso paste and features flavours of sesame and shrimp. The broth is slightly sweet but balanced by a faint sour edge, provided by rice vinegar.
And, for true lovers of spice, I’d recommend the Tan Tan Men. This is another fan favourite, and customers have been begging Roy to bring it back. The spicy chicken broth uses the same tantan miso paste as the dip, but with a more prominent shrimp flavour. With how thick and creamy the broth was, I had to keep checking that it wasn’t tonkotsu. It’s definitely the kind of warm and filling comfort food to get you through the depths of winter!
Staff: Nicholas Jones
Nicholas lived in a tiny fishing village in Hokkaido from 2009 to 2011. Ostensibly, he taught English, but he spent most of his time wrangling elementary students and frequenting their parents’ sushi restaurants. He is currently on a quest to find Toronto’s best kara-age.
Ryus Noodle Bar
786 Broadview Ave., Toronto
OPEN: Daily 11 am–10 pm